Grand Hotel Principe di Piemonte Review, Viareggio, Tuscany, Italy

Chef Giuseppe Mancino has won two Michelin stars and a loyal following for his accomplished, innovative dishes at the elegant Il Piccolo Principe restaurant, now housed on the ground floor veranda where the atmosphere is hushed and sophisticated, though long-standing fans may miss the rooftop setting it formerly enjoyed. This is refined Italian cuisine at its best, pepped up with the odd Asian influence. You can choose between 'Essential Green', 'Classic' and 'Experience' menus or go à la carte. Highlights included an extraordinary riff on the humble tomato; spaghetti with butter, anchovies and smoked tea; a pretty Swiss chard green risotto with calamari; and perfectly pink barbequed pigeon with pineapple and vermouth sauce.  

For a more laidback vibe, head to the rooftop bar and restaurant Maitò – sip a cocktail on the upper level where cool sounds accompany fabulous views before heading down to the pool deck, a prime spot for watching the sun sink into the Mediterranean as you tuck into dishes such as lobster and champagne risotto, a platter of grilled scampi or even a bistecca alla Fiorentina bred in semi-wild state.

The breakfast buffet is exceptional and includes fresh oysters and shrimp, an eye-popping array of fresh cakes, pastries, cheeses, charcuterie, roast beef, frittata, pizza, eggs Benedict, omelettes made to order, freshly squeezed juices and pancakes with maple syrup. My only quibble is that it's served in a slightly soulless space on the ground floor.

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